MENYALAKAN KULKAS DENGAN AKKI
Menyalakan kulkas dengan AKKI terdengar cukup mudah, namun perlu penelitian lebih banyak soal siapa, kenapa, dan bagaimana.
Pada tulisan ini saya akan bercerita tentang perjalanan saya mencoba menyalakan sebuah kulkas dengan AKKI sumber arusnya berasal dari solar panel hingga berhasil.
AKKI 70 AH: BISAKAH ?
Saya memiliki sebuah AKKI bekas 70 AH yang saya dapatkan dari tukang Akki yang cukup terkenal di kecamatan saya. Sebut saja mas AGUS ACCU.
Mas Agus mengatakan bahwa Akki yang saya beli ini adalah 75% kapasitas. Resistansi dalam AKKI nya masih bagus dan prima kalau menyalakan lampu LED 12Volt dengan banyak beban.
Namun memiliki AKKI saja tidak cukup untuk bisa menyalakan Kulkas. Tegangannya saja berbeda. AKKI adalah sumber tegangan searah ( Direct Current = DC ), sementara kulkas memerlukan sumber tegangan arus bolak-balik ( Alternating Current= AC ).
Berarti memerlukan sebuah alat yang berfungsi untuk merubah tegangan DC menjadi tegangan AC yang orang biasa mengatakan dengan nama INVERTER.
MENCOBA INVERTER 1600 WATT
Selanjutnya saya mencoba mendatangkan sebuah Inverter Made in China dengan nama SUNYIMA. Konon katanya menurut pedagang ia adalah inverter Dc to AC yang menghasilkan sinus murni.
Dalam body inverter selanjutnya ada tulisan china seperti ini:
Karena saya tidak paham tulisan seperti ini, maka saya memanfaatkan fitur Google Translate dengan LENS, yakni menterjemahkan tulisan pada sebuah gambar. Hasil terjemahan adalah seperti gambar di bawah ini:
Saya tersenyum. Ternyata terjemahannya adalah SINUS MURNI.
Selanjutnya adalah saya merakit wiring AKKI dengan INVERTER ini. Seperti biasanya kalau kutub + AKKI kita konek ke capit merah dari Inverter dan kutub – AKKI kita konekkan dengan capit buaya warna hitam.
Output dari Inverter saya hubungkan ke Kulkas.
KULKAS TIDAK BISA MENYALA KARENA INVERTER SELALU FAULT
Selanjutnya adalah menyalakan Inverter.
Pertama kali menyala, maka tegangan pada AKKI nampak terbaca sebesar 13.0 VDC. Akan tetapi selang tidak sampai 1 menit, tiba-tiba tegangan pada display Inverter itu menunjukkan angka 10,7 VDC dan selanjutnya Inverter tiba-tiba mati dan menyalakan lampu FAULT.
Saya menduga kulkas ini menarik daya sangat besar sehingga inverter tidak mampu mengkonversi tegangan menjadi tegangan AC dengan baik sehingga terjadi Fault.
dan benar ketika saya menghubungkan kembali kulkas ke jalur jala-jala PLN, maka say amati bahwa ketika kulkas berangkat menyala pertama kali ternyata mengambil daya lebih dari 800 Watt. Angka yang lumayan besar.
Dari sini saya berkesimpulan bahwa sang AKKI tidak mampu melayani kebutuhan dari kompressor kulkas meskipun butuh hanya sesaat.
Tetapi saya juga mencurigai bahwa arus pengisian dari solar panel ke AKKI sepertinya masih kurang.
Akhirnya saya putuskan untuk mendapatkan sebuah panel surya lagi untuk menambah asupan setrum untuk cas ke AKKI.
MENAMBAH PANEL SURYA UNTUK MENAMBAH SETRUMAN
Dengan kemudahan dagang jual beli online, maka saya mendapatkan informasi Solar panel terdekat di kota Surabaya. Info dari tokoijo.
Dikataka bahwa solar panel ini adalah mono kristalin. Tentu saja harganya jauh lebih murah dari yang poly kristalin.
Setelah 3 hari menunggu, solar panel datang ke rumah. Penampakannya adalah seperti gambar di bawah ini:
Pada saat tidak terkonek ke beban, tegangan open terukur pada terminal solar panel adalah 22 VDC. Jika terkonek ke beban ( Solar Cell Control ). maka panel surya akan menyesuaikan dengan tegangan pada AKKI.
Berikut ini adalah penampakan solar panel yang paralel 3 modul dan saya letakkan diatas genteng teras rumah.
Efek dari penambahan solar panel adalah tegangan pengisian ke AKKI lebih cepat daripada biasanya. Saya mengharap dengan pengisian lebih cepat ini maka AKKI dan Inverter mampu menghaditkan daya minim 800 Watt.
INVERTER TETAP FAULT KETIKA KULKAS BERANGKAT
Dengan menambahkan Solar Panel yang membikin arus pengisian lebih cepat, apakah lebih baik? Akhirnya saya ulangi lagi wiring untuk SOLAR PANEL-AKKI- INVERTER-KULKAS.
Dan hasilnya adalah: INVERTER FAULT
KULKAS TETAP GAGAL START DAN INFERTER MENYALAKAN LAMPU FAULT
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MENAMBAH ELCO UNTUK PENAMBAH ARUS SIMPANAN
Sebuah akun yutup mengatakan bahwa dengan modal 30.000uF/35V, maka ini bisa untuk menambahkan simpanan bagi arus kejutnya.
Segera saya mencari omponen ini. Selanjutnya saya rakit secara paralel.
Hasilnya adalah :
MENCOBA RICE COOKER SI BEBAN RESISTIF DAYA LUMAYAN
Saya sampai mencoba apakah masih bisa Inverter saya ini melayani sebuah RICE COOKER atau penanak nasi.
Kabel dari penanak nasi telah saya hubungkan ke Stop kontak output dari Inverter. Inverter konek ke AKKI pada sisi kutub + dan kutub –
Inverter saya nyalakan. Selanjutnya saklar mode saya pindah ke mode COOK ( artinya= memasak ) .
BERHASIL MENYALA.
Namun saya malah heran. Kenapa Rice Cooker bisa tetapi kulkas tidak mampu?
Saya memperhatikan bahwa Rice Cooker ini memerlukan daya hingga 400 Watt pada mode memasak serta 75 Watt pada mode menghangatkan.
Saya menyimpulkan bahwa Inverter dan AKKI masih mampu melayani beban bersifat Resistif meskipun berdaya lebih besar dari sebuah Kulkas.
Selanjutnya saya mulai mencurigai Battery atau AKKI nya. Masak sih sudah SOAK?
Akhirnya saya putuskan untuk mendatangi mas AGUS ACCU lagi untuk memeriksa kondisi battery basah saya ini.
Ia mengatakan bahwa AKKI saya yang 70AH ini mulai turun daya. Berarti dugaan saya adalah sama dengan Mas AGUS, yaitu: AKKI tidak kuat.
MENCOBA AKKI VRLA BARU
Karena masih diliputi penasaran ,maka saya mencoba untuk mendatangkan sebuah Akki jenis VRLA yang berkapasitas 100AH.
Kali ini kita akan mencoba pasangkan sebuah Akki dengan jenis VRLA untuk mengangkat sebuah kulkas melalui inverter 12VDC to 220VAC. Inverter di sini adalah inverter merubah tegangan dari 12 volt DC menjadi 220 Volt AC.
Inverter kita pasang maka kita coba output dari inverter kita hubungkan ke kulkas dan selanjutnya inlet dari inverter kita hubungkan ke Akki
Klip buaya terkonek dengan Terminal Akki, maka kita mencoba menyalakan inverter.
Setelah inverter menyala, maka kita tunggu sebentar untuk menunggu kemungkinan sang kulkas berangkat starting. Yang kita lakukan di sini adalah memperhatikan efek tegangan drop pada Akki jenis VRLA ini.
Note: Beberapa hari yang lalu , saya mencoba menggunakan aki basah 70 AH untuk menyalakan sebuah kulkas via inverter dan nyatanya tidak berhasil.
KULKAS BERHASIL MENYALA
Saya memperhatikan terus menerus tegangan yang tampil pada display Inverter. Pada saat pertama kali saya nyalakan, nampak terbaca tegangan 12,3VDC.
Setelah sekitar 30 detik, tiba-tiba tegangan turun menjadi 11,9 VDC. Saya menduga tegangan drop ini berasal dari tarikan arus pertama dari Kulkas.
Tegangan yang keluar dari Inverter rupanya tetap 220VAC dari pembacaan avometer analog saya.
Saya seketika tersenyum karena senang kulkas bisa menyala dengan menggunakan gabungan Inverter dan AKKI.
BISAKAH MENAMBAH ELCO UNTUK MENAIKKAN TEGANGAN
Ketika beban listrik dari Inverter adalah kulkas yang berupa lilitan atau istilahnya adalah beban induktif, maka dapat disimpulkan bahwa ia akan memerlukan arus tarikan pertama yang cukup tinggi. Karena itulah kenapa Akki saya yang 70 Ampere ini tidak mampu untuk melayani tarikan kulkas.
Seorang teman menyarankan agar jaringan 220VAC kulkas ini dan saya mencoba mengisi jalur 220 dari Inverter ini menggunakan Elco non polar 16uF 450VAC. AVO Meter saya tancapkan pada lubang stop kontak untuk memonitor tegangan AC.
Setelah saya tancapkan, ternyata tidak ada perubahan pada tegangan walaupun kita menambahkan kapasitor senilai 16 mikro farad.
Berarti pemakaian kapasitor untuk kulkas yang hanya 150Watt pada Inverter 1600 Watt adalah tidak perlu.
MENGIRIT DUIT HINGGA 2, 1 JUTA SETAHUN
Dalam benak saya bertanya: entar elu ngirit berapa duit lur? Saya tersenyum lagi. Wah berapa ya?
Selanjutnya saya cek meteran token di depan rumah. Saya menghitung selisih daya antara kulkas terpasang dan kulkas tidak terpasang pada jala-jala.
Selisihnya lumayan besar: 150Watt.
Dari sini saya bisa bayangkan nanti akan ada penekanan biaya listrik hingga 0,15kW x 24H = 3,6 kWH. Jika 1 kW berharga 1,6rb ( meteran rumah saya pakai 2200VA ) maka kita akan kena 3,6 x 1,6ribu = 5,76 ribu tiap hari.
Jika sebulan ada 30 hari maka akan ketemu penekanan biaya sebesar 5,76 x 30 = 172 ribu rupiah. berarti dalam setahun akan terjadi penekanan biaya hingga 5,76 x 365 = 2,1 Juta rupiah. Angka yang lumayan.
Akan tetapi ini adalah angka teori. Karena pada kenyataannya sang kalkus tidak berputar terusan 24 jam dalam tugasnya. ketika suhu dingin telah tercapai, maka ia akan berhenti.
Namun demikian andai kata kulkas bekerja 50% saja dalam sehari, maka akan dapat terjadi penekanan biaya listrik hingga 1,05 juta setahun. Masih angka yang lumayan bagi seorang buruh pabrik seperti saya ini.
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